As the sun-kissed summer season graces the picturesque shores of Lake Como, discerning travellers seek refuge in the tranquil village of Moltrasio. Here, nestled amidst the cobblestone streets and azure waters, lies Passalacqua, a haven that transcends mere hospitality.
It’s an invitation to relive the golden era of “villeggiatura” the annual ritual for Italian families who eagerly anticipate their seasonal move from city to country abode. It brings more than a change of scenery. It was an opportunity to recharge the body, enrich the soul and expand the mind.
Once a private residence dating back to 1787, Passalacqua has metamorphosed into a boutique hotel that whispers tales of timeless elegance. Resulting from the enlargement of the property once owned by Pope Innocent XI. The Villa as we see it today was designed and built at the end of the 18th century by leading Milanese architect Carlo Felice Soave for Count Andrea Lucini-Passalacqua, one of Como’s leading noble families.
After the last Lucini-Passalacqua count died without an heir in 1890, the property changed hands a few times. Its owners included an Estonian baroness with a passion for fast cars and a reclusive Hungarian anthropologist and having illustrious visitors such a Winston Churchill
Finally, in 2018, Villa Passalacqua was acquired by the De Santis family, Lake Como natives and owners of the celebrated Grand Hotel Tremezzo. After a major three-year restoration project, Passalacqua threw open its doors to the world in June 2022, relaunching and renewing its historic vocation for hospitality.
This former aristocrats’ home on the shores of Lake Como has been transformed into a unique hotel. Its 24 characterful guest accommodations are spread across three magnificently restored edifices, surrounded by seven acres of landscaped gardens that descend to a private jetty. The hotel, restaurant and gardens are open exclusively to Passalacqua guests as is the use of a bright orange Spiaggina, the oh-so-cute vintage open-top Fiat 500 used to whisk you around the property.
Its 24 unique accommodations are whispers of elegance, adorned with views that defy description. Some open onto private patios, while others frame the lake like living postcards. It is not just about a stay; it’s about reviving the lost art of travel. From mornings spent sipping espresso on a sun-drenched terrace, gazing across the rippling waters towards the distant peaks. Each room, a canvas of understated luxury, invites you to step into the pages of history and create new memories.
The love for details permeates every corner of Passalacqua. From the antique furnishings to the delicate linens, the owner family’s passion shines through. While functionality remains a priority, it’s the aesthetics, the play of light on polished wood, the scent of blooming jasmine that weave the magic. With more than twenty different varieties of precious marble, from Verona, Carrara and further afield. Venetian terrazzo flooring, laid by some of the few artisans who still practice this ancient art. Fortuny lampshades; Murano candelabras, sconces and mirrors; Como silk taffeta curtains; prints, artworks and one-of-a-kind antiques sourced by the De Santis family from markets and auctions across Italy.
The 18th-century Villa at the heart of the estate is a romantic vision in shimmering silk, delicate stuccowork and glittering chandeliers. As in the past, so today, the entire ground floor is dedicated to the leisure and pleasures of waking life, from an intimate nook of a bar to a well-stocked library, a walk-in kitchen and two gracefully frescoed dining rooms.
Passalacqua is also the Palazzo, a long rustic edifice that once housed the working part of the estate, and a lakeside retreat, the Casa al Lago, dating back to the 1970s. Nothing on the outside quite prepares you for what is inside. Passalaqua is all about bringing the spirit of ” meraviglia” back to travel. This can be as simple as stepping through a doorway and smiling in delight.
The restaurant, overlooking the water, serves up Italian classics with a twist. Sip local wines as the sun dips below the horizon. Just like its English equivalent ‘taste’, the Italian term ‘gusto’ packs a double meaning. It is cultured discernment, that effortless instinct for placing the right chair, or word, or colour, in just the right place. It is also one of our five senses – more than any other, that which brings us such pleasure at the dinner table.
Passalacqua’s world of design endeavours to combine discernment with delight. So too does its world of food, fine wine and cocktails. The key to the mix is simply stated: respect for good, fresh, seasonal ingredients, respect for time-honoured recipes and traditions, and a belief in the richness of simplicity.
One of Italy’s most celebrated chefs, Viviana Varese has passionately embraced what she calls “the greatest opportunity of my life”: to honour the historic Italian tradition of family cooks – most of whom were women – and redefine it for the 21st century. In the latest chapter of the story that led her from the seafood trattoria on the Amalfi Coast where she grew up to her own Michelin-starred restaurant in Milan, Viviana is making Passalacqua the benchmark for a new vision of alta cucina di casa, or refined home cooking.
In Italy, food is about much more than meals. That’s why Passalacqua has adopted a unique approach to dining, one that allows guests to embrace the country’s vibrant gastronomic culture just as they would if they were staying in the house of an Italian friend. For chef Viviana Varese, this is the true meaning of alta cucina di casa, or refined home cooking: not only preparing standout dishes but being there for you, every minute of the day, to delight, teach, comfort and amaze.
One of the small joys of country house life is wandering into the kitchen, helping yourself to a tempting snack, striking up a conversation, getting involved in the baking or the pasta-making. Passalacqua’s open kitchen is yours, to learn in and to linger in. So too is our snug and stylish bar, which celebrates northern Italy’s vibrant cocktail and aperitivo scene and the gentle art of conversation.
Unwind in the spa, where the scent of eucalyptus mingles with the gentle lapping of waves. Or just a few paces from poolside, the Winter Garden is a former greenhouse that has been transformed into an all-day bar. Here, the pool’s tutelary goddess – flamboyant Milan-based designer JJ Martin of La DoubleJ – has applied her design flair and impeccable vintage radar to create a chic, joyful realm of convivial comfort.
The kitchen garden co-exists with a bocce court and an ancient pergola-trained vine of sweet table grapes. The fitness area looks onto an olive grove. All the fruit, all the herbs, are here for guests to gather, as are the eggs of our free-range chickens.
Running beneath the gardens lies a secret gallery, excavated in the 18th century. Was it a service passageway or the facilitator of some romantic tryst? We may never know, but one thing is certain. Passalacqua’s sauna and steam bath seem made for the gallery’s vaulted stone chamber. But that’s only the beginning. A little further on, this underground realm opens out into a rock-hewn relaxation area and the heated indoor pool, a secret world of stone, water and light that gives onto the Italian gardens. To float in the pool’s liquid caress, admiring the sky above and the verdant green outside, is to experience the essence of Lake
The staff, professional yet warm and treat guests like cherished friends can can help arrange anything from a massage, learning to make pasta or just skim across the lake in a vintage motor launch.
Explore Beyond
Venture beyond the hotel’s gates, stroll the lakeside promenade, where bougainvillaea spills over ancient stone walls or discover hidden trails that wind through olive groves and lead to hilltop villages. With the nearby Como town, just a short boat ride away, lose yourself in its historic charm.
Beppe the boatman or one of his fellow skippers can offer you a sleek vintage or modern motor launch to explore the lake. The Two new vessels were recently added to the fleet, both connected to the lake’s historic Riva boatyard: an Aquariva, the company’s contemporary homage to the legendary Aquarama runabout, and a gloriously restored Riva Olympic, which was created as a tribute to the 1968 Olympic Games.
They join the Giumello II, a vintage launch that is the perfect choice for gentle voyages of discovery and sunset cruises. Ideal for longer jaunts, its sportier cousin Didi comes complete with sundeck and swim platform.
Passalacqua isn’t just a hotel; it’s a place of wonder, a celebration of life, love, and the eternal beauty of Lake Como. As the sun sets, casting a golden glow on the water, you’ll understand why this corner of Italy has captured hearts for generations.
Remember Live, love, taste, explore. Your vacation. Your rules.