Japanese traditions have always heavily inspired global wellness trends – from shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) and qi spots to Kon Mari.
Here ways of mindful living and longevity are passed down the generations through a combination of unmodified foods, being out in nature and, of course, an ancient Onsen culture. Visitors to the Setouchi region can explore this proactive approach to preventative wellness on a bike trail spanning approximately 70 km between the islands of the Seto Inland Sea, at Japan’s oldest hot spring resort and by ‘brewing’ themselves in an historic sake-factory-turned-guesthouse.
Be yourself and brew yourself in Mitoyo City
Mitoyo City in Setouchi’s Kagawa prefecture is home to all kinds of reflective and rejuvenating experiences. Chichibugahama Beach is a popular bathing spot but is also known for a natural phenomenon, the Mirror of the Heavens. Occurring at low tide when the shallow tide pools along the wide sandy beach seamlessly reflect the sky it’s best experienced at sunset on a still evening. Climbing to 352 metres above sea-level offers another perspective of the water from the top of Mt Shiude. The summit provides views of the Seto Inland Sea and its islands to the north, east and west and an ascent surrounded by hydrangeas in summer and cherry blossoms in the spring. For a unique cultural immersion book a stay at the Mitoyotsuru TOJI, a private guesthouse in a Sake Brewery that was founded in 1877. Guests are invited to ‘Brew a New You’ following a wellness ritual that mimics the sake making process and utilises the old equipment. The experience includes husking (undressing), rinsing in a steaming bath, fermenting in bath salts made from sake lees in the Grand Brewing Bath that’s still fed by the same mountain-sourced groundwater, soaking in converted barrels, relaxing in the sauna, and then ageing, or getting a good night’s sleep! Guests can also sample various sakes during their stay.
Rates at Mitoyotsuru TOJI start from 29,700 Yen (£151pp) per night (correct as of September 2024), check in 4pm, check out 10am. The inn offers shared sleeping space for up to 11 guests.
Rejuvenate at Dogo Onsen, Japan’s oldest hot spring resort
Following the completion in July of a five-year restoration project, Dogo Onsen Honkan in Matsuyama once again offers a place to experience the sacred atmosphere of Japan. This symbolic bathhouse, the main attraction of the wider Dogo Onsen, has a history dating back around 3,000 years and is mentioned in Japanese mythology. Nearby are two additional bathhouses, Emmanji Temple and Hogonji Temple, a Sky Walk where visitors can enjoy a foot bath with a view, and the ruins of an historic castle built in the 14th century. In 1994 the Dogo Onsen Honkan was designated a National Important Cultural Property. The bathing experience here is fed by 18 naturally flowing hot springs whose soothing alkaline waters are ideal for skin care, alongside the many other therapeutic benefits of balneotherapy. In this main bathhouse there are two public bath options – the main Kami no Yu (Bath of the Gods) and the smaller Tama no Yu (Bath of the Spirits), with four bathing courses to follow in separate male and female areas. On the upper floors of the building are relaxation spaces where visitors can relax in a traditional yukata robe, take a tour of Yushinden, the Japanese Imperial Family’s private bathroom, and, if the timing’s right, hear the sounds of the drums. This sound was first struck to signal the time, and has been the signature sound of Dogo Onsen Honkan since 1894.
Dogo Onsen Honkan is open between 6am and 11pm daily (last admission at 10.30pm). It is open year round except for year-end cleaning. Entry fees range from Yen 700pp (£3.50) to Yen 2500pp (£13.50) depending on access and duration. A guided tour of the Emperor’s bathing facilities cost Yen 500pp (£2.70). All prices are correct as of September 2024.
Cycle the 70km Setouchi Shimanami Kaido sea road
The Shimanami Kaido is a scenic cycle route that opened in 1999 connecting Onomichi city in Hiroshima prefecture and Imabari in Ehime, and has been cited as one of the best cycling spots in the world. The route traverses more than six islands in the Seto Inland Sea, including Mukojima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima and Oshima, with seven connecting bridges. The 4,100 metre Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge between Oshima and Imabari was the world’s first triple suspension bridge. The islands are known for their Mediterranean climate, quiet fishing villages and temples, and the Shimanami Kaido connects the different attractions of each island – from the area’s storied pirate history and the 700 Buddha statues on Innoshima, to Ikuchijima’s lemon groves and the fruit-forward craft beers and thalassotherapy of Omishima. Bicycles can be rented on both sides of the Shimanami Kaido – in Onomichi City (Hiroshima side) at Shimanami Rental Cycles and in Imabari City (Ehime side) at the Imabari Central Cycling Terminal, allowing visitors to enjoy the route in either direction. There are also additional rental locations along the way as well as around 140 cycle oases offering rest stops, guest houses and bicycle maintenance bases with facilities such as air pumps and bike stands. For experienced cyclists the whole route can be completed in around four hours but most people take at least two days to fully enjoy the route. There are cycle ships that operate between the islands so cyclists can return to their starting point by ferry. Alternatively they can take advantage of the Cycling Without Baggage service offered by participating hotels, hostels and ryokans which takes care of transporting luggage between accommodation stops along the route so guests can cycle freely and then continue on their way.
Onomichi Port is open between 7am-7pm (March to November) and 8am-6pm (December to February). Imabari Central Cycling Terminal (Sunrise Itoyama) is open between 8am-8pm (March to November) and 8am-6pm (December to February).
All these experiences are part of Setouchi Journeys, a series of 23 carefully curated tours through the Setouchi region that last between three and five days. For more information visit www.setouchi.travel/en/setouchi-journeys
The Setouchi Region is located in western Japan and surrounds Japan’s largest inland sea. To access the region from the UK there are direct flights to Tokyo from London Heathrow with British Airways and Japan Airlines, from there it is a 4.5 – 5 hour journey via Shinkansen to stations in the region including Shin-Kobe, Himeji, Okayama, Hiroshima and Shin-Yamaguchi.