At a certain age – let’s call it “post-sensible” – you stop counting birthdays and start counting backwards. You begin doing things that would’ve once raised eyebrows at the office.
Like my personal challenge of hiking through West Sweden. Slowly, and on purpose, with a backpack full of curiosity, lets face it you can’t fit too much into a backpack and a schedule that prioritises fika (coffee) over meetings. That’s how I found myself boarding a train from Gothenburg to Lidköping, swapping deadlines for dainty porcelain and the kind of scenery that makes your inbox feel irrelevant.
Day 1: Lidköping: A Town That Smells Like Fresh Bread and Clean Air
The train glides into Lidköping with the kind of punctuality that makes you question every other transport system you’ve ever trusted. I check into Hotell Rådhuset, a charmingly central spot where the coffee is free-flowing and the sandwiches are always within reach. It’s the kind of place that feels like a well-kept secret — comfortable, unfussy, and perfectly placed for cultural wandering.
Lunch at Konditor Trulsson: Where Pastry Is Practically a Religion
Lunch is a buttery, flaky affair at Konditor Trulsson, a bakery that smells like heaven and serves it by the slice. Nestled in the Rörstrand Centre, it’s a warm-up act for the porcelain pilgrimage that follows. I sip strong coffee and homemade lasagna and of course finish with cake, the food is somehow both rustic and refined – a theme that will repeat itself throughout this part of west Sweden.
Rörstrand Museum: Three Centuries of Porcelain and a Side of Existential Awe
The Rörstrand Museum is a revelation. Who knew porcelain could be this poetic? From 18th-century faience to 21st-century multifunctional ceramics, the museum charts Sweden’s porcelain journey with elegance and unexpected drama. There’s a circular kiln that looks like it could double as a Bond villain’s lair, and sketches that whisper stories of artistry and ambition. Upon sipping another coffee served of course in Rörstrand China, wondering why I’ve never paid attention to the plate beneath my cake before and now realising why so many swedish pick up and look at the bottom of their China for its authenticity.
With time to spare, I wander Lidköping’s cobbled streets, where boutiques and bakeries compete for attention. The town is clean in that almost cinematic way — no litter, no noise, just the occasional clink of coffee cups and the distant hum of bicycles. It’s a place that invites you to slow down, look up, and maybe even breathe properly for once.
Dinner at Mellbygatans Restaurang: Tap Beer and Tasteful Indulgence
Dinner is a masterclass in local flavour at Mellbygatans. The star of the show is the deep fried indulgent Cinnamon bun ( Kanelbullar) with crumble, vanilla ice cream and finished with maple syrup. Paired with a craft beer from their encyclopaedic selection (over 100 varieties, if you’re counting), and toast to the kind of day that makes you forget your phone exists. The restaurant is part of “A Taste of West Sweden,” and it delivers exactly that – seasonal, regional, and quietly spectacular.
Day 2: Hiking the Biosphere Trail — Oaks, Castles & Roe with a View
There comes a point in life when your idea of adventure shifts from airport lounges and espresso-fuelled meetings to gravel paths and the scent of ancient oaks. That’s how I found myself swapping my laptop for hiking boots and setting off from Lidköping toward the Biosphere Trail – a UNESCO-designated stretch of serenity hugging Lake Vänern’s southern shore. It’s not just a walk; it’s a slow-motion revelation.
From Bus to Biosphere: The Trail Begins
After breakfast and a breezy transfer, I arrive at Ulleredsbro, where the trail begins with a whisper rather than a roar. This section is a gentle 14 km and winds through Skansen Läckö nature reserve, where old oaks stand like wise elders and the air smells like moss. The terrain is forgiving, the views quietly spectacular. Every few steps, Lake Vänern peeks through the trees like a shy celebrity.
Spiken: Roe, Boats & a Slice of Swedish Charm
Midway through the hike, I reach Spiken — a fishing village so picturesque it could be a watercolour. It’s one of Europe’s largest inland fishing ports, but today it’s all about lunch at Spikudden. Sitting on the pier, watching boats bob in the fjord, and tucking into vendace roe and smoked fish so fresh it practically tells you its life story. The menu is simple, the view anything but.
Läckö Castle: Baroque Beauty and Botanical Bliss
The trail continues to Läckö Castle, a vision in white perched dramatically above the lake. Although at the moment it is being restored and clad in scaffolding there is no mistaken its beauty and has been voted Sweden’s most beautiful castle. It is a baroque masterpiece with seven centuries of stories. As I wander through its preserved halls and down into Lilla Slottsträdgården, a garden that feels like a sensory poem, the colours, scents, and textures collide in a way that makes you want to cancel all future meetings and become a full-time horticulturist.
Victoriahuset: Nature, Nobility & Nordic Design
Just next door is Victoriahuset, my overnight stay and Sweden’s only Nature Centre with just 15 hotel rooms. The hotel , a birthday gift to Crown Princess Victoria, is a study in sustainable design — all driftwood ribs and reed-inspired façades. Inside, exhibitions tell the story of the archipelago’s flora, fauna, and geology. It’s like sleeping inside a love letter to nature.
Optional Hike to Roparudden: Echoes and Eken
Not for me, but for those with energy to spare, there’s a scenic loop around Roparudden — once a signalling point to summon ferrymen from Stora Eken. The trail hugs the lake, dips into forest, and offers views of Läckö Castle that feel like a reward for walking slowly.
Dinner at Sjöboden: A Culinary Curtain Call
The day ends with a short cycle back (me on a bike!) to Spiken and dinner at Sjöboden. This former ice house with over 100 years of history has a menu that reads like a tribute to West Sweden’s terroir. Vendace roe, shellfish, game, and vegetables — all locally sourced and plated with quiet confidence. The wine list is global, the vibe intimate. It’s the kind of meal that makes you feel like you’ve earned every bite.
Day 3: Kinnekulle by Rail — Vines, Quarries & Swedish Fika
There’s a moment in every grown-up’s life when they realise the most beautiful train journey isn’t the one that gets them to a meeting on time – it’s the one that makes them forget they ever had meetings. That’s how I ended up on the Kinnekullebanan, a 16-minute slice of scenic perfection voted Sweden’s most beautiful rail route. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the best way to move forward is to slow down.
Hiking from Trolmen to Hällekis: Nature’s Greatest Hits
The trail from Trolmen to Hällekis is a masterclass in biospheric brilliance. Oaks, orchids, and geological drama line the path, with Kinnekulle’s layered table mountains rising like nature’s own mille-feuille and of course we find Fika in the middle of a hike. Passing Råbäck harbour and its historic stonemasonry, wandering through Munkängarna’s leafy cathedral of lime trees, and pausing at the grand quarry – a place so cinematic it deserves its own drone footage.
Lunch at Hellekis Säteri: Vines, Horses & Ginkgo Dreams
Lunch is served under century-old vines at Hellekis Garden Café. Invited to help yourself to the sweet grapes which grow inside in abundance. The food is seasonal and a take on modern classic Swedish food with a slight twist. The cakes are unapologetically indulgent, and the view includes grazing horses and a Ginkgo biloba tree with more wisdom than most CEOs. The estate’s gardens are a sensory playground with rose beds, rare trees, and perennial borders.
Falkängen Craft Village: Fika, Fossils & Folk Art
The afternoon takes me to Falkängen Hantverksby, a craft village that feels like stepping into a Swedish storybook. These former cement factory homes now host artisans selling everything from ceramics to textiles, with a carriage museum and a fossil exhibition thrown in for good measure. I settle in for yet another fika that includes strong coffee, a local charcuterie board and selection of – yes – homemade cakes. Not once did I think about my inbox.
Lundsbrunn Resort & Spa: Steam, Serenity & Sustainability
By early evening, I’m checked into Lundsbrunn Resort & Spa, a wellness haven that’s been soothing souls since 1724. The spa is a symphony of saunas, pools, and experience showers — which, for the record, are far more enjoyable than they sound and much needed after hiking. Fully refreshed dinner is locally sourced, elegantly plated, and served with the kind of calm that only comes from knowing tomorrow’s agenda includes surrealist photography and zero spreadsheets.
Day 4: Artful Farewell in Götene
Our final day began with a visit to the newly opened Svenstorp Art Centre, nestled between Lake Vänern and the Kinnekulle plateau. The surreal photography of Erik Johansson – dreamlike, disorienting, and deeply imaginative – offered a fitting counterpoint to the grounded beauty we’d experienced all week. Over more Fika and conversation at the on-site café, we lingered among images that bent reality and stretched perspective, a reminder that travel, too, is a kind of visual trick: what you see depends on how you look.
After lunch, we transferred back to Gothenburg, the landscape slipping past like a slow dissolve. It was time to head to the airport – and home.
I arrived in Gothenburg with no expectations – just a backpack, a sturdy pair of boots, and a vague hope for fresh air and slower days. What followed was a gentle, scenic immersion into West Sweden’s art, nature, and heritage. I have hiked through oak meadows, along the Biosphere Trail. Wandered castle gardens, and paused often – for fika, for views, and for the sheer pleasure of not rushing.
Looking back it seems all I did was fika and lots of coffee. But it was beautiful and peaceful and energising in a way I hadn’t expected. This was my first time in Sweden, and yes, it nudged me out of my comfort zone. I swapped polished itineraries for pine trails, let go of the usual pace, and leaned into the unfamiliar.
While the original journey through West Sweden may have embraced the charm of trains, planes and public transport, for those seeking elevated comfort you can easily swap timetables for tailored itineraries. From the moment you land, every leg of the journey can be curated to match your pace, preferences, and penchant for luxury, transforming a rustic escape into a refined adventure.
What I found was breath taking: landscapes that felt like paintings, people who welcomed curiosity, and a rhythm that reminded me how good it feels to be just a little bit lost. I enjoyed every minute of this adventure — and if you’re wondering whether it’s worth stepping off the beaten path, trust me: This is where slow travel rewires everything, you thought you knew about time well spent.
For more information: Visit Sweden and Experience West Sweden & Gothenburg Sweden’s official